This week’s post not only concludes our meander through Medieval places in Umbria but also culminates a journey of discovery we began in romantic Tuscany, followed by beauteous Lake Bolsena at the mystical place where Tuscany, Lazio, and Umbria meet.
In our last post, we got acquainted with Spoleto, Montefalco, and Bevagna, three splendid villages in the southern half of Umbria. Bordered by Tuscany to the west, Le Marche to the east, and Lazio (where Rome is located) to the south, Umbria is the only region in central Italy without a coastline on either the Tyrrhenian or Adriatic Seas. Nestled in the country’s core, one need only behold its lush, rolling terrain to understand why it is called “The Green Heart of Italy”. Like Tuscany, Umbria is a region blessed with beauty and fertility, as well as a human story that has been unfolding since very ancient times.
Many places in Umbria can trace their origins back to the Etruscan civilization and Umbri tribes, some as far back as 1,000 BCE. The custom of establishing urban centers in easily defensible positions, a habit shared by both the Umbri and the Etruscans, can yet be seen in the numerous hilltop villages throughout central Italy. Medieval times also left an indelible mark on these villages, as that era’s particular architectural esthetic was superimposed on ancient foundations.
As we mentioned in our previous post, Umbria is the perfect place for an experience of genuine Italy. Tuscany may be the belle of the Italian ball but Umbria is no less lovely, despite being having an emptier dance card. Being less popular makes Umbria an ideal destination for those seeking a more tranquil holiday.
We wrap up our “Splendour in The Green Heart of Italy” series with Perugia, Cortona, and Citta della Pieve in the environs of historic Lake Trasimeno. Each destination has its own distinct charm; if you visit them together on a day trip, you will get an optimal set of variations on a Medieval theme.
Chocolate lovers, you will want to read on about Perugia! If you prefer ancient history over chocolate, you'll be excited to know this part of Italy was the setting of epic battles between Rome and Carthage during the Punic Wars.
PERUGIA
Right at the center point of the Italian peninsula, roughly midway between Rome and Florence, Perugia is perched on a promontory overlooking the Tiber River and Umbrian countryside.
Perugia, originally an Etruscan settlement, is one of the oldest and most beautiful cities in Italy. Today, it is Umbria’s capital city and a vibrant university town, attracting jazz enthusiasts and chocolate lovers from around the world thanks to the internationally acclaimed Umbria Jazz Festival, held yearly in July, and Perugina, Italy’s beloved chocolate manufacturer.
The center of city life in Perugia is Piazza IV Novembre, the handsome square adorned by two of Perugia’s most iconic architectural points of interest: Palazzo dei Priori and Fontana Maggiore, both elegant works of Medieval craftsmanship. Rocca Paolina is a 16th Century fortress (with an interesting story centering around a war over salt), subsequently demolished in the 19th Century and then restored in the 20th Century to become a tourist attraction today, the former streets of the historic centre now occupying its underground passageways.
Like all formerly Etruscan places, the views from Perugia are stunning.
CORTONA
For the record, Cortona is in Tuscany, not Umbria (although some say it should be in Umbria). Just a stone’s throw from the Umbrian border, the village was transformed into a chic tourist destination by Frances Mayes’ best-selling novel Under the Tuscan Sun and the movie starring Diane Lane.
Cortona is another one of those places founded by the Etruscans that emits a mystical energy. Its charming Medieval center is loaded with boutiques, art galleries, restaurant terraces, and wine bars. History geeks will want to make their way to the fortified walls of the city where the original Etruscan wall dating back to the 4th Century BCE can still be seen.
CITTÀ DELLA PIEVE
You could think of Città della Pieve as a sort of Medieval mini Doberman; small but fierce. It was a free city in Medieval times, allied with Siena and constantly battling the Pope and Perugia. The hamlet possesses a unique architectural signature: its buildings are constructed entirely in exposed brick.
Although tiny, the village was an important center in the late 18th Century. A flourishing economy led to the creation of public works as new ideas and influences flowed in from Rome and Florence.
Città della Pieve enjoys a quirky claim to fame, found in one of its most minuscule features: Vicolo Baciadonne. Only 80 cm (31 inches) wide, this alley is one of the narrowest in Italy. (The fact that baciadonne translates as “kiss women” should give us a clue about what has regularly transpired in this tight space over the centuries.) If rare culinary ingredients appeal to you more than smooching in close quarters, you’ll be glad to know that saffron has been cultivated in Citta della Pieve since the 13th Century, a tradition that proudly continues to this day.
If Italy’s marvelous Medieval places are beckoning you, let DriverInRome escort you on a magical journey of discovery! Please contact us to learn about all destinations, whether you are arriving by cruise ship or staying in Rome, Tuscany, or Sicily.
