Salutamu! We’re back in Sicily this week to conclude our two-part series highlighting the wonders of the island’s Ionian Coast.
Everywhere you look in Sicily today, you can see the delicious results of a cultural melting pot that has been simmering for nearly three thousand years.
Sicily’s present cultural amalgamation can be experienced in the food, the architecture, the language, the social customs, and the physical attributes of its people, all of which evidence the wildly different influences that make up Sicily’s past. (For our quick synopsis of Sicily’s cultural evolution, refer to Part One of this pair of articles.)
Sicily Past & Present: Ancient Greek Theatres, Sea Stacks with Mythological Roots, Quaint Villages Skyrocketed to Stardom
All this current cultural conglomeration is pretty amazing, but what’s even more amazing is that you can also get a firsthand look at how it all began.
In the 8th Century BCE, Ancient Greek settlers arrived on the eastern
coast of Sicily. They colonized the island as part of Magna Grecia and
revolutionized its history, hellenizing the indigenous peoples and
constructing massive temples and acoustically perfect theatres as only
the Greeks could do.
The remains of these marvels of ancient engineering can be found all across Sicily. Believe it or not, Sicily is home to some of the most spectacular and best-preserved Greek ruins in all the world, on par with the most famous ruins in Greece itself. Today’s article begins with the stupendous ancient theatres in Siracusa and Taormina.
Of course, where you have Ancient Greeks you have Greek mythology and lore! This aspect of Sicilian civilization is still alive and well, especially on the Ionian Coast of the island where a number of legends are set. (Go figure; when you’ve got an active volcano dominating the landscape, you’ve got a lot of inspiration for mythical tales!)
The Ionian shores of Sicily figure prominently in The Odyssey, Homer’s epic poem that chronicles Odysseus’ epic voyage back to Ithaca after the Trojan War. When Odysseus crosses paths with the Cyclops Polyphemus on the slopes of Mt. Etna, the end of the story is the mystical formation of the monumental faraglioni (sea stacks) — on the Riviera dei Ciclopi. Read on for the full mythological scoop!
In addition to mythology, theatrical performances were an important part of Ancient Greek culture, just as movies are to us today. And when we think of cinema and Sicily, it’s hard not to think of The Godfather. Other movies might come to mind when you think of Sicily; it is the backdrop for a fair number of gorgeous films (to be enlarged upon in a future article) but Francis Ford Coppola truly immortalized the island in his series of cinematic masterpieces. In the process, the hilltop hamlets of Savoca and Forza d’Agrò were catapulted to rockstar status. The “Godfather Villages” are one of the most visited places in Sicily and the final spotlight in this article.
If you’re considering a trip to Italy or coming on a cruise that stops in Messina or Catania, this pair of articles could be helpful as you’re deciding what to do.
Siracusa: An Ongoing Legacy of Greek Culture
The Greek Theatre in Siracusa is an awe-inspiring testament to the rich cultural heritage of Ancient Greece. Carved into the rocky slopes of the city, this magnificent open-air theatre dates back to the 5th century BCE and showcases the exceptional architectural capabilities of the Greeks. With its towering stone seating area (holding about 15,000 spectators) and acoustically advanced design, the theatre was an important venue for Greek tragedies and comedies in ancient times. The theatre is still in use today, hosting various cultural events, theatrical productions, and concerts, carrying on the legacy of Greek culture and its profound impact on the development of theatre.
The Greek Theatre in Siracusa is part of a larger archaeological park, an expansive historical site that illuminates the fascinating past of the Ancient Greek settlement.
Siracusa itself is a beautiful and vibrant city, shining like the sun with honey-coloured stone adorning its piazzas and Baroque buildings (as pictured in the featured image of this newsletter), aesthetically quite the opposite of nearby Catania with its dark palette of grey and taupe.
Taormina: The Modern and The Ancient in Full Glory
Perhaps the most popular destination on the Ionian Coast of Sicily, Taormina is both a modern cosmopolitan resort and an ancient living testament to the island’s Greek roots. Perched on a cliff overlooking the Bay of Naxos and Mount Etna, the ancient theatre in Taormina occupies a truly breathtaking setting. Built by Greek inhabitants in the 3rd century BCE, it was originally designed for theatrical performances and later repurposed for gladiatorial contests during Roman times. Today, the ancient theatre in Taormina remains a splendid archaeological site and a popular venue for performances and musical events.
Taormina is also well-known for its beautiful beaches, elegant architecture, romantic atmosphere, and chic boutiques.
Riviera dei Ciclopi: A Landscape of Mythical Proportions
Stretching north from the bustling city of Catania on Sicily’s eastern shore is the Riviera dei Ciclopi. From the name alone we know some good mythology is in store!
Named for the Cyclops, a giant mythical creature with one eye, the Riviera dei Ciclopi is a spectacular section of coastline known for its dramatic cliffs, rugged volcanic landscapes, charming fishing villages, and faraglioni — the magnificent sea stacks off the coast of Aci Trezza.
How the faraglioni came to be is the subject of some pretty fun lore. According to The Odyssey, our hero Odysseus is responsible for the creation of these offshore monoliths. After being held captive by the Cyclops, Odysseus managed to escape with his men by getting the one-eyed beast drunk and then blinding him. As Odysseus sailed away with his crew, the Cyclops hurled boulders at them from the slopes of Etna. Of course, having been blinded, his aim suffered, the massive rocks landed in the sea, and — voilà! — the faraglioni were born.
In geological terms, the faraglioni of Aci Trezza are basalt rock formations, believed to be remnants of ancient volcanic activity. They are composed of eight distinct sea stacks in the crystalline water just off the shore, with the tallest reaching a height of around 65 meters (213 feet). The effect is a picturesque coastal landscape of mythical proportions.
Savoca & Forza d’Agrò: The Godfather Villages
Not far from Taormina on Sicily’s eastern shore, nestled into the green hills and accessible only by the most winding of winding roads, are two sleepy villages: Savoca and Forza d’Agrò. Well, they are not so sleepy anymore, not since Francis Ford Coppola selected the pretty hamlets as shooting locations for The Godfather. For some decades now, the villages have been a strange sort of Sicilian Mecca, invaded by busloads of tourists who come to seek out the filming sites.
The Godfather was shot in a number of locations across Sicily but we’re spotlighting the most iconic ones, located in Savoca: Bar Vitelli and the church of San Niccolò.
Bar Vitelli, which greets visitors as soon as they set foot in the village, is immortalized in the scene where Michael Corleone asks the owner of the bar about a girl he has just seen and been enchanted by (the owner’s daughter, Apollonia, who would fleetingly become Michael’s wife until a car bomb takes her life). Today, the patio area of the bar, so unadorned in the film, is a welcoming space enclosed by greenery, a great place to escape the heat and enjoy a beverage while imagining Al Pacino sitting in the corner. The mega-success that came to Bar Vitelli in the wake of The Godfather was put to good use; the owner transformed the handsome building into a charming, upscale bed and breakfast.
San Nicolò (also referred to as the church of Santa Lucia) dates back to the 13th Century. Sitting on what seems a perilous perch overlooking the Ionian, the viewer can’t help but wonder how in the world they built this big ol’ house of worship in such an inhospitable spot. Besides being a mind-boggling feat of Medieval construction, the church of San Nicolò is very lovely and was the site chosen by Coppola for the wedding of Michael and Apollonia.
Memories of The Godfather live on undiminished in Savoca. Inside Bar Vitelli, a small room opposite the café is filled with photos and memorabilia from the movie shoot. The local woman who played Apollonia’s mother, of a certain age now but still very lively, can be found socializing outside a popular bakery (in fact, the writer of this blog was fortunate enough to come across her there as she sat reminiscing about the filming a couple of summers ago).
Savoca and Forza d'Agrò are among the Borghi Più Belli d'Italia — the most beautiful villages in Italy. The truly wonderful thing about them, however, is that they still hold the essence of a time gone by, a time of a slower pace of life and a simpler way of living.
DriverInRome would be pleased to chauffeur you around Sicily (or anywhere in Italy) with a private car and driver. Please contact us regarding popular or custom itineraries.
