Shore excursions in Italy ,Daily Tours and guided Limousine services.
We had an awesome day with Claudio our driver. He collected us promptly and took care to find out what we expected to get from our trip and made sure that he exceeded these expectations. He called ahead to book a trusted private tour guide who was waiting for us on our arrival in Pompeii - he was fantastic! And then we drove on to Sorrento, stopping at various places on the Amalfie Coast to take photographs and then we had a late lunch in Il Positano, before returning to Rome. Travelling with two young daughters, it was a long day trip, but memorable - and we all thought it was our best day of our week-long holiday to Rome.
Tour Of Rome
Date published: 02/20/2016
5 / 5 stars
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tips

food

WHEN TO DINE:

Romans eat late in comparison to Americans.

Lunch or what the Romans call "Pranzo" begins after 1pm and goes to 3:30pm.

Dinner or what the Romans call "Cena" begins about 8pm and goes to 11pm.

Restaurants however opens earlier: for lunch around 12 or 12:30pm and for dinner around 7pm.

Be aware that if you walk in the place will seem empty.

One advantage of going earlier is that you always get a seat.

Even though the restaurant is empty, it may be difficult to get a waiter to pay attention to you, as they are often busy with set-up procedures.

Waiters also work in cycles with customers coming in at specific times. This means that if you are trying to get the bill when the restaurant has filled up and everyone around you is ordering dinner, it might be a little difficult to get the waiter's attention.


how TO DINE: the courses

Roman dining is normally "a la carte", a series of courses that are each priced individually.

Eating in courses make sense to the Roman mind, as each course comes separately, spreading out your meal.

The waiter should present you with a menu and ask what you would like to drink. Normally it is water, "gassata" or with gas (usually slightly carbonated) or "Naturale". Then do you want red or white wine? You can always ask for the wine list, but the house wine in Italy is very good and usually very inexpensive. The wine comes in liter and quarter liter pitchers. You can always ask for Coca Cola and Died Coke is called Coca Cola Light.

There is usually a "Primo Piatto" or first plate, normally soup or pasta. Check out the price of the pasta on menus outside the restaurant before you enter, as that will help you estimate whether the restaurant is expensive. If the pasta prices fall between 5.000 and 10.000 lire, you have found an inexpensive restaurant. If the pasta falls between 10.000 and 15.000 lire you have found a restaurant with moderate prices and if its higher, then this is an expensive place to eat.

The "secondo piatto" or second plate is normally a choice between meat or fish. However if you want to eat lightly after your pasta dish, you can order a salad, an artichoke or even just a plate of spinach or eggplant.

What is important is to order a second course, not that this course has to be large, filling or expensive and a wonderful Roman salad with good tomatoes and different types of lettuce is a great substitute.

The "dolce" or dessert comes next. There are several popular deserts, usually Tiramisu, and various forms of "Tortas" or cakes and finally "gelato" or ice cream. Always ask if the dessert is "fatto in casa" or home made, as this will tell what is the very best thing to order in the restaurant.

"Macedonia di frutta" is a great way to end a meal, a fresh fruit cup that gives you your Vitamin C! Roman dessert are traditionally very light and filled with whipped cream, especially the cakes. You will be surprised how easy it is to eat them, even if you are feeling somewhat full.

Than there is coffee which is a separate course. This comes as a great surprise to Americans, especially as it is served after the desert is finished. It can be difficult to explain to a waiter to serve your coffee with your desert. He will probably roll his eyes, and you may not get it.

One thing you can have with your coffee is a "digestivo" or after dinner drink. The Romans have two classic ones that are very low in alcohol content and quite good. "Amaro" the Roman word for bitter is a dark colored drink made from all kinds of things, often fruits or vegetables and like a strong bitter taste, ask for Amaro Montenegro, which is flavored with vanilla. Everyone's favorite choice in Rome is Limoncello, a slightly sweet lemon drink that comes from the bay of Naples. Once a summer digestive, it has become so popular that it is now served all year.

Than comes the "dolorosa" or the bill. It is traditionally to leave a small tip. Round out the bill to the next even figure and then add 5% as a basic rule of thumb. So if the bill were 43.000 lire, than leave 50.000. If the bill were 75.000 lire then leave 85.000 lire.


DEALING WITH WAITERS:

Roman waiters are one of the great institution of the city. They can be very gracious and helpful, but as I have often seen tourist deal with them in rude and demanding ways, I am not surprised that they have built up a system of dealing with non-Italians who don't understand how to dine out in Rome. The basic rule is that if you want something ask, but don't presume it is supposed to be there.

Here is some advice.

The waiter will come with a menu, and often it is just one menu for the table. Americans are used to having a separate menu for each person, cut Italy people share. If you want another menu just ask. After you have ordered, even if you have ordered just the first course, the waiter may take the menu away. If you decide to order something else later, he will bring the menu back if you ask. Tables are often quite bare when you first sit down. If there are not enough glasses ask for more. The waiter will bring silverware often depending on what you order. The napkins will often come with the "coperto" or bread tray, and you will find them on top when the waiter put the coperto on the table. Romans do not eat butter with their bread but, if you want butter, ask and the waiter will go back into the kitchen and find some for you. Often there is no black pepper on the table but, if you ask, the waiter will bring some. Salads are usually dressed before they served, but you can ask for oil and vinegar and especially for balsamic vinegar. Often if the waiter has decided you are an American he will take your entire order all at once. Romans order a course at a time and, if is what you want, say so. Waiters take the whole order because they believe this what Americans Tourists want. If the waiter keeps asking for the whole order by saying "dopo" or after that, then say "vediamo dopo", which means "We will see, after that". Like many Americans you may want to order the whole meal after you have sat down. What you will discover is that the courses come either very quickly or very slowly. One advantage of ordering a course at a time, is that you eat a pace that you set, and not one set by your waiter. If you want the bill say "il conto per favore" which literally translates as "the count please". Most restaurants take credit cards but check when you first go in. If the restaurant takes credit cards they will be listed on the glass door of the restaurant. If they do not take credit cards you can find that printed in the menu.


going out for a pizza:

A few suggestions about pizza in Rome.

While Americans love to have pizza for lunch, most Romans have their evening meal. This is because Romans have their principal or large meal at lunchtime. Many restaurants that have pizza ovens may only fire up them up in the evenings.

Other places, especially in the heart of central Rome where the tourists gather, will serve pizza at lunchtime. You almost always have to ask whether they serve pizza at lunchtime. The reason is that Rome becomes very hot as Spring and Summer arrive and pizza oven fills the restaurant with heat. So in the Summer when it is very hot the last thing a restaurant owner wants is to rise the temperature of the room. That is why pizza ovens are often fired up, only in the evenings, especially in the Summer time. Ordinarily pizzas are individually made are about the size of a large dinner plate. So don't think about sharing a pizza as they are not large enough. And even though the pizza may look bigger than it is first served, it is so thin and light that you will discover it is just enough for one person. Pizzas in Rome are designed with standard names that represent the toppings. So you can't ask for a pepperoni pizza. The most popular pizza in Rome is a Pizza Margherita which is your basic cheese and tomato pizza. As you read the names and the toppings, you will discover that they are clever and always very good. So Buon Appetito! It's difficult to compile a list of the best restaurants in a city like Rome. Everybody - locals, expatriates, even those who have chalked up only one visit-has favorites. What follows is not a list of all the best restaurants of Rome, but simply of is favorites. For the most part I've chosen not to review every deluxe spot known to all big spenders. Rather, we've tried to seek out equally fine (or better) restaurants patronized by some of the finest plates in Rome - but not necessarily by the fattest wallets.


Alberto Ciarla

Piazza San Cosimato 40

Tel.: 06/5818668

In Trastevere Seafood

Price category: Expensive

Alberto Ciarla is the best on one of Trastevere's most expensive restaurant. In an 1890 building, set into an obscure corner of an enormous square, it serves truly elegant fish dishes. You'll be greeted with a cordial reception and a lavish display of seafood on ice. A dramatically modern décor plays shades of brilliant light against patches of shadow for a Renaissance chiaroscuro effect. Specialities include a handful of ancient recipes subtly improved by Signor Ciarla (an example is the soup of pasta and beans a delectable fish in orange sauce, savory spaghetti with clams and a full array of delicious fresh shellfish. The fillet of sea bass is prepared in at least three ways, including an award-winning version with almonds Main courses 20.000L-45.000; fixed-price menus 75.000-110.000L. Open: Mon-Sat 8:30pm-12:30am. Closed 1 week in Jan and 1 week in Aug. Reservation required. Credit cards: AE, DC, MC, V.

Da Vittorio

Via di San Cosimato 14A

Tel.: 06/5800353

In Trastevere Pizza

Price category: inexpensive

Although competition is fierce, we'll take a risk and say that Naples-born Enzo Martino consistently serves some of the best pizzas in Rome. He refers to his version as "The real thing"- a pie that's soft and thick like those that pop out of the oven in his southern hometown. When the weather's fair, diners- most often a young crowd - opt for a table outside, deep in the heart of Trastevere. Inside it's rather cramped, with a thrown-together décor of hanging utensils, shelves of wine bottles, and Neapolitan pinups on the wall. All the classics make an appearance: Neapolitana (fresh tomatoes and anchovies), Margherita (tomato and mozzarella), and Capricciosa (ham, eggs, artichokes, and olives). Enzo names one of the tastiest - fresh basil, fresh tomato, freshly grated Parmesan, and lots of mozzarella - after himself. Other than a limited selection of antipasti and salads, the choice here is almost exclusively pizzas and pastas. Pizzas 9.000L-12.000L; pastas 10.000L. Open Mon-Sat 6:30pm-midnight. Reservations not accepted. Credit Cards: No credit cards.

La Cisterna

Via della Cisterna 13

Tel.: 06/5812543

In Trastevere Italian

If you'd like traditional home cooking based on the best regional ingredients head here. La Cisterna, named for an ancient well from imperial times discovered in the cellar, lies deep in the heart of Trastevere. For more than 75 years it has been run by the Simmi family, who are genuinely interested in serving only the best as well as providing a good time for all. In good weather you can dine at sidewalk tables. If it's rainy or cold you'll be in rooms decorated with murals. In summer you can inspect the antipasti right out on the street before going in. From the on-site ovens emerges Roman-style suckling lamb that is among the finest in the district. It's amazingly tender and seasoned with fresh herbs and virgin olive oil. The fiery hot rigatoni a l'amatriciana is served with red-hot peppers, or you may opt for another delectable pasta dish, pappalini romana, wide noodles flavored with prosciutto, cheese, and eggs. The shrimp is grilled to perfection, and you can always rely on the chef selecting an array of fresh fish concocted into such dishes as flaky sea bass baked with fresh herbs for extra aroma and flavor. Main courses 20.000L-32.000L. Open Mon-sat 7pm-1:30am. Reservation recommended. Credit Cards: AE, DC, MC, V.

Abruzzi

Via del Vaccaro 1

Tel.:06/6793897

Near Ancient Rome

Italian

Price category: Inexpensive

Abruzzi, which takes its name from the region east of Rome, is at one side of Piazza SS Apostoli, just a short walk from Piazza Venezia. The good food and reasonable prices make it a big draw for students. The chef offers a satisfying assortment of cold antipasti. With your starter, we suggest a liter of garnet-red wine; we once had one whose bouquet was suggestive of Abruzzi's wildflowers. If you'd like soup as well, you'll find a good "stracciatella": egg and Parmesan soup. A typical main dish is "vitella tonnata con capperi": veal in tuna sauce with capers. But the menu ranges far wider than that, a virtual textbook of classical Italian dishes, everything from a creamy baked eggplant with mozzarella to meltingly tender veal cutlets in the Milanese style: fried with potatoes. No one in Italy doest roast lamb better than the Romans, and the selection here is good-tender , grilled to perfection, seasoned with virgin olive oil and fresh herbs, and dished up with roast potatoes. Main courses 9.000L-22.000L. Open: Sun-Fri 12:30-3pm and 7:30-10:30pm. Closed 2 weeks in Aug. Reservation recommended. Credit Cards: AE, DC, MC, V.

Il Quadrifoglio

Via del Boschetto 19

Tel: 06/4826096

Near Ancient Rome

Italian

Price category: Moderate

In a grandiose palace, this likable, well-managed restaurant allows you to sample the flavors and herbs of Naples and southern Italy. You'll find a tempting selection of antipasti, featuring anchovies, peppers, capers, onions, and breaded and fried eggplant, all garnished with fresh herbs and virgin olive oil. Pastas are made daily, usually with tomato or oil-based sauces, always with herbs and usually aged crumbling cheeses, and perhaps garnished with squid or octopus. Try a zesty rice dish (one of the best is "sartù di riso", studded with vegetables, herbs and meats), followed by a hard-to-resist grilled octopus or a simple but savory "granatine" (meatballs, usually of veal, bound together with mozzarella). Desert anyone? A long-time favorite is "torta caprese", with hazelnuts and chocolate. It's so good you definitely need to save room for it. Main courses 20.000L-30.000L. Open: Mon-Sat 7pm-midnight. Reservations recommended. Credit cards: AE, DC, MC; V.

Boccondivino

Piazza in Campo Marzio 6

Tel.: 06/68308626

Near Piazza Navona and The Pantheon

Italian

Price category: Expensive

Part of the fun of this restaurant involves wandering through historic Rome to reach it. Inside, you'll find delicious food and an engaging mix of the Italian Renaissance with imperial ancient Rome, thanks to recycled columns salvaged from ancient monuments by 16th-century builders. Modern art and a hip staff dressed in black and white anchor the cuisine firmly to the late 20th century in ways that are always linked to the seasons. Examples include fettuccine with shellfish and parsley; carpaccio of beef, various risottos, including a version with black truffles, and grilled steaks and veal. Especially intriguing is whipped codfish resting on spikes of polenta, and tagliolini with cinnamon, prosciutto and lemon. If you appreciate fish, look for either the marinated and grilled salmon or a particularly subtle blend of roasted turbot stuffed with foie gras. Desserts are firmly rooted in fresh fruits of the season, usually incorporating such seasonal products as marinated pineapple, and fruit-studded house made ice creams. The restaurant's name, incidentally, translates as "divine mouthful". Main courses 24.000L-70.000L. Open: June-Sep, dinner only, Mon-Sat 8pm-1:30am Oct-May daily 12:30pm and8pm-1:30am. Reservation recommended. Credit cards: AE, DC, MC; V.

Passetto

Via Zanardelli 14

Tel.: 06/68806569

Near Piazza Navona and The Pantheon

Italian

Price category: Expensive

Passetto, dramatically positioned at the north end of Piazza Navona, has drawn patrons with its 1½ -century reputation for excellent Italian food. The stylish interior consist of a trio of high-ceilinged dining rooms, each outfitted with antique furniture and elaborate chandeliers and conveying a tasteful sense of the bourgeois Italy of a century ago. In summer, however, you'll want to sit outside looking out on Piazza Sant'Apollinare. The pastas are exceptional, including "farfalle passetto" (pasta with shrimp, mushrooms, and fresh tomatoes). One recommended main dish is "orata al cartoccio" (sea bass baked in a paper bag, with tomatoes, mushrooms, capers, and white wine. The paper bag keeps in the juices and aroma and no, it doesn't catch fire). Another house specialty is "rombo passetto" ( a fish similar to sole) cooked in cognac and pine nuts. An eternal Roman favourite is a Lamb in the style of Abruzzi (oven roasted with potatoes). Fresh fish is often priced by its weight, so tabs can soar quickly. Fresh vegetables are abundant in summer, and a favourite dessert is seasonal berries with fresh thick cream. Main courses 24.000L-50.000L. Open: Daily noon-4pm and 7pm-midnignt. Reservation recommended. Credit cards: AE, DC, MC; V.

Quinzi & Gabrielli

Via delle Coppelle 5-6

Tel.: 06/6879389

Near Piazza Navona and The Pantheon

Seafood

Price category: Expensive

We've never found better or fresher seafood than that served here in a 15th-century building attracting the most discriminating of Rome's fish fanciers. Don't be put off by the rough-and-ready service; come here for the great taste instead. Be prepared to pay for the privilege, as fresh seafood is quite expensive in Rome. Partners Alberto Quinzi and Enrico Gabrieli have earned their reputation on their simply cooked and presented fish. Everything tastes natural and fresh, and heavy sauces aren't used to disguise old fish as they are in many restaurants. In fact, the restaurant is known for its raw seafood, such as a delicate carpaccio of swordfish, sea bass, and deep-sea shrimp. The house specialty is spaghetti with lobster, but all sorts of fish are served, including sea urchins, octopus, sole and red mullet. You can check out what's available in a special display in ice at the entrance. Sometimes the headwaiters will prepare wriggling crab or scampi right on the grill before you: that way you know it's fresh. In summer French doors lead to a small dining terrace. Main courses 40.000L-60.000L. Open: Mon-Sat 7:30-11:30pm. Closed Aug. Reservation required as far in advance as possible. Credit cards: AE, DC, MC; V.

Alfredo alla Scrofa

Via della Scrofa 104

Tel.:06/68806163

Near Piazza Navona and The Pantheon

Italian

Price category: Moderate

Yes, folks, this is one places in Rome claiming to be the birthplace of fettuccine Alfredo, which almost seems as well known in American today as it is in Italy. Douglas Fairbanks and May Pickford liked this dish so much they presented a golden spoon and fork to the owners when they parted with the recipe. Thus, a culinary legend was born. If you like something buttery and rich, you can still opt to order the dish that delighted these long departed silent screen stars. Although the fettuccine remains the best dish on the chef's menu, you can also try different pastas, notably a tagliolini allo scoglio, delectably concocted from fresh tomatoes and shellfish. We always enjoy the two filet mignons, one with a delectable sauce made from Barolo wine, the other from wine and Gorgonzola. Casanova, were he still around, would surely delight in the filet mignon dish named after him, prepared with wine sauce, freshly ground pepper, and foie fras. A final offering is the sautéed breast of turkey covered with thin slices of white truffles from Italy's Piedmont district, a truly delightful dish. Main courses 20.000L-35.000L. Open Dec-Apr Wed-Mon 12:30-3pm and 7:30-11:30pm; May-Nov daily 12:30-3pm and 7:30-11:30pm Reservation recommended. Credit cards: AE, DC, MC; V.

Tre Scalini

Piazza Navona 30

Tel.: 06/6879148

on Piazza Navona

Italian

Price category: Moderate

Opened in 1882, this is the most famous restaurant on Piazza Navona, a landmark for ice cream as well as more substantial meals. Yes it's crawling with tourists, but its waiters are a lot friendlier and more helpful than those at the nearby Passetto, and the setting can't be beat. There's a cozy bar on the upper floor with a view over the piazza, but most visitors opt for the ground floor café or restaurant. During warm weather try to snag a table on the piazza, where the people-watching is extraordinary. The chefs here draw their inspiration from the finest raw materials available on the Roman markets that morning. Therefore, the cuisine is fresh and spontaneous. The risotto with porcini mushrooms is worthy of the finest restaurants in Milan, where it is a Lombard specialty. The carpaccio of sea bass could be served in a three-star restaurant in Paris, and the roast duck with prosciutto wins many devote fan. One cook here confided to us, "I cook dishes to make people love me". If that's the case, try his saltimbocca (veal with ham) and roast lamb Roman style and you'll fall in love. No one will object if you order just a pasta and salad, unlike at other restaurants nearby. Their famous tartufo (ice cream disguised with a coating of bittersweet chocolate, cherries, and whipped cream) and other ice creams cost from 6.000 to 15.000L. Main courses 22.000L-32.000-l. Open Thurs-Tues 12:15-3pm and 7-11pm. Closed Dec-Feb. Reservations recommended. Credit cards: AE, DC, MC; V.

Da Mario

Via della Vite 55-56

Tel.: 06/6783818

Near the Spanish Steps & Piazza del Popolo

Italian

Price category: inexpensive

Da Mario is noted for its flavorful game specialties and excellent Florentine-style dishes (meats marinated in olive oil with fresh herbs and garlic and lightly grilled). The rich bounty of meats available during hunting season makes this a memorable choice, but even if you aren't feeling game (or don't enjoy eating it) you'll find this a convivial and quintessentially Roman "trattoria". A good beginning is the wide chunks of rabbit (leper), available only in winter. "Capretto" (kid). Beefsteaks, and roast quail with polenta are other good choices. The wine cellar is well stocked with sturdy reds, the ideal accompaniment for the meat dishes. For desert we heartily recommend the gelato misto, a selection of mixed velvety ice cream. You can dine in air-conditioned comfort at street level or descend to the cellars. Main courses 18.000L-26.000L; fixed-price menu 45.000L. Open Mon-Sat 12:30-3pm and 7:30-11pm. Closed Aug. Reservation recommended. Credit cards: AE, DC, MC; V.

Quirino

Via delle Muratte 84

Tel.:06/6794108

Near the Spanish Steps & Pantheon

Italian

Price category: inexpensive

Quirino is a good place to dine after you've tossed your coin into the Trevi Fountain. The atmosphere is typical Italian, with hanging Chianti bottles, a beamed ceiling, and wall murals. The food is strictly home cooking. We're fond of a mixed fry of tiny shrimp and squid rings that resemble onions rings. The selection of vegetarian pasta is prepared with the freshest ingredients available at the market on any given day. The pasta dishes are quite fabulous, especially our favorite -homemade pasta with baby clams and porcini mushrooms. The pasta alla Norma with fresh tomatoes and eggplant ha won the approval of many a demanding Italian opera star. A variety of fresh and tasty fish is always available and always grilled to perfection. For desert there's a yummy chestnut ice cream with hot chocolate sauce or homemade cannoli. Main courses 15.000L-30.000L; fish dishes 25.000L-30.000L. Open: Mond-Sat 12:30-3:30pm and 7-11pm. Closed 3 weeks in Aug. Credit cards: AE, MC, V.

Gusto

Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9

Tel.: 06/3226273

Near the Spanish Steps & Piazza del Popolo

Italian

Price category: inexpensive

This restaurant is made up of two separate parts, each aimed at differing degrees of culinary sophistication. The simpler of the two is a street-level pizzeria, where at least a dozen kinds of homemade pastas and pizza are offered along with freshly made salads and simple platters of such grilled Specialities as veal, chicken, steak, and fish. More urbane, and somewhat calmer, is the upstairs restaurant, where big windows, high ceilings, floors of glowing hardwood, and lots of exposed brick evoke a minimalism that's consistent with the modernity of the cuisine. Look for a fusion of Italian and Pacific Rim cuisine in such internationally inspired combination as spaghetti stir-fried in a Chinese wok with fresh, al dente vegetables; prawns and spring baby vegetables done tempura-style; buffalo mozzarella intriguingly entwined with tuna and arugula; Middle Eastern staples like chickpea paste (tabouleh); And stir-fried scallops with Italian Herbs. Main courses in street level pizzeria 15.000L-35.000L; main courses in upstairs restaurant 25.000L-55.000L. Open: Tues-Sun 1230pm and 8pm-2am. Reservations recommended. Credit cards: AE, MC; V.

Dal Bolognese

Piazza del Popolo 1-2

Tel.: 06/3611426

Near the Spanish Steps & Piazza del Popolo

Italian

Price category: moderate

This is one of those rare dining spots that's chic but actually lives up to the hype with truly noteworthy food. Young actors, shapely models, artists from nearby Via Margutta and even corporate types on expense accounts show up, trying to land one of the few sidewalk tables. To begin, we suggest a "misto di pasta" four pastas, each with a different sauce, arranged on the same plate. After consuming this dish, you will surely vouch for the skill of the chef. A worthy substitute would be thin, savory slices of Parma ham or perhaps the delectable prosciutto and wine- ripened melon (try a little freshly ground pepper on the latter). For your main course, specialities that win hearts year after year include lasagne verde, a rich, creamy selection, or tagliatelle alla Bolognese, a dish that is truly succulent. The chefs also turn out the town's most recommendable veal cutlets Bolognese topped with cheese. They're not inventive, simply superb. You may want to cap your evening by calling on the Rosati café next door (or its competitor, the Canova, across the street), to enjoy one of the tempting pastries. Main courses 22.000L-28.000L. Open: Tues-Sun 12:30-3pm and 8:15pm-1am. Closed 20 days in Aug. Reservation required. Credit cards: AE, DC, MC; V.

Ristorante Nino

Via Borgognona II

Tel.: 06/6795676

Near the Spanish Steps & Piazza del Popolo

Italian

Price category: moderate

Ristorante Nino, off Via Condotti and a short walk from the Spanish Steps, is a mecca for writers, artists, and the occasional model. If you had a Tuscan mama mia, she might have cooked like the chefs here hearty, robustly flavored Tuscan home-style dishes that change with the season and have made Nino's famous. Beef, shipped in from Florence and a charcoal-broiled, is pricier than the rest of the menu items, but neither as a succulent nor as tender as that served at the better-known (and more expensive) Girarrosto Toscano. A plate of cannelloni Nino (the house version of the popular dish, consisting of meat-stuffed pasta is one of the chef's Specialities. Other good dishes include grilled veal liver, fagioli cotti al fiasco (beans boiled in white wine, salt, ground black pepper and herbs), Codfish alla livornese (codfish cooked with tomatoes and onions), and zucchini pie. The reasonably priced wine list is mainly Tuscan, with some especially good choices among the Chiantis. Main courses 22.000L-50.000L. Open: Mon-Sat 12:30-3pm and 7:30-11pm. Closed Aug. Reservations recommended. Credit cards: AE, DC, MC; V.